• 2 (3-lb) whole salmon fillets with skin, any small bones removed with tweezers
• 500 grams shiro miso (white fermented-soybean paste) (about 2 cups)
• 2 tablespoons sake or white wine

For shiitakes with citrus zests

• 3 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1 lb fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded and caps thinly sliced
• 3 navel oranges
• 3 large lemons
• 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves
• 1/2 cup (1/2-inch) lengths of fresh chives
• 1/2 cup fresh orange juice (preferably from juice oranges)
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice